Two Ride

The Santa Cruz Bullit is an icon. First produced in 1999 it was the first real all mountain bike. You could build it for XC, freeride or downhill. Over the years the Bullit has had minor changes and an increase in travel. The Bullit was unavailable in 2006 while the model was being revamped for relaunch in spring 2007.

The 2007 model features a lighter frame made from custom drawn double-butted aluminum tubes forming a completely redesigned front triangle and new stiffened swingarm pivots ride on a 20mm axle in oversize bearings. Travel remains at 178mm but is now compatible with 8-inch brake rotors in the back and 203m forks through the new 1.5" headtube. You can now run a 135mm QR or 150mm thru-axle, as well as an optional floating rear brake kit

Back in 2001 I had the idea to build the ultimate freeride bike and take it to Europe for 4 months to see how it stacked up.

Firstly I will point out I am not a mechanic and don't want to be one. I can do the basic stuff and fine tune the bike to the way I like it. I was expecting to get a little help here and there.

I chose a basic 2001 X disc kitted Bullit as all the kits had something I didn’t want and I figured this would work out cheaper. First mistake.

You had a good choice of forks suitable for the Bullit back then but wanted something a bit more plush and racy. I went for the Rockshox Boxxer as it was, and to some extent still is the top race fork. At the time the fork wasn’t approved for the Bullit as it was over its 152mm travel limit. Second mistake.

In the end both these mistakes worked out but in building ‘unapproved’ parts you end up reaching into your wallet to fix your errors.

The Build

What I wasn't expecting was to get problems from day one. I started building the bike by getting the bottom bracket and headset fitted at a reputable dealer with a good set of tools. No damage or cross threading for me.

Next the forks went on no problem. The wheels were another thing. Bontrager rims with Real hubs and disc mounts and Shimano QR. The back is fine, the front is not 20mm axle compatible. On further investigation I figured the wheels a bit weak and so ordered some black Mavic 531's, black Hope bulb hubs with black DT Swiss spokes - nice. You will notice black here. Originally I was told by a few UK dealers that black spokes were either not available or incredibly that they were weaker than silver ones ! Speaking to DT Swiss and Mavic both these rumours turned out to be unfounded. After talking Extreme Sports into getting me the spokes they did indeed build me a fine set of wheels although with the 321 Mavic rims. I guess that 531's would have been lighter.

Now damn me if the 20mm Boxxer axle didn't fit the 20mm Hope hub. Not even close. I checked with a couple of dealers and it turned out to be a common problem as both are exactly 20mm and consequently don't fit. I spoke the UK Rockshox distributor who really didn't want to know. He said I could send it back to them to measure but he was sure it was 20mm, or I could buy another for 80 UK pounds ! Not great customer service and not a fix.

Hope Technology on the other hand were more than helpful and I sent them the wheel and axle and they polished the axle and sent it back for zip. Next I put on some Nokian tyres with some difficulty - a real tight fit, fixing a flat would later be 'interesting' and involve strength testing the 321's.

So the wheels went in over a month from starting. The seat, post, stem and bars all went on then the brakes. The Hayes brakes come 'already built' you just have to bolt them on. Which with the back wheel I did just that using the cable run adapters which initially looked a little flimsy but have stayed on with no problems. Setting up the back with the one sheet of instructions wasn't as easy as it said. The pads would rub the disc in varying places and to different degrees as you tightened the caliper mount bolts. Eventually I used washers to space them better and eliminate the rub. No mention of this in the instructions or on their website and they didn't supply any washers in the kit but later on a dealer told me they always do this. The front was again another problem. The disc and caliper mount don't fix a Boxxer fork (surprise, surprise) so I had to get a Boxxer specific 6" disc and a mount adapter. Again with the washers and then I had brakes.

Fitting the Shimano gears, cranks, rings and cassette was easier than expected. After the first ride the cassette came loose and had to be tightened. Even the 9 speed gears didn't take too much fiddling after reading that they were hard to adjust compared to 8 speed. After a few easy rides I replaced the crank bolts with some tasty X-Lite ones, but after harder rides some months later I suffered creaky cranks and ended up putting originals back in (as you can't tighten the X-Lites' too much). The bolts still loosened until I replaced the bottom bracket and cranks a year later.

From the original kit I didn’t use:

• WTB Saddle - replaced with Azonic Hot seat, bigger, tougher, strangely comfortable and cool looking
• Titec stem - Way too long, replaced with Azonic World Force shorty and a Edlock for easy fitting of Fender and not having to use star nuts
• Hutchinson Python Tyres - Thin and little tread for Californian conditions, replaced with Nokian Gazzaloddis 2.3 chunky euro friendly tyres
• Bontrager Wheels/Real hubs
• Grips - Hard and cheap.
• Seat clamp - Replaced with quick release

The Ride

I was somewhat shocked on the first ride. It all worked. The frame felt stiff, the suspension supple, the brakes worked and the gears changed. The gears had to be fiddled with a bit over the first couple of weeks and a month later. The only problems I had was the chain dropping off the big ring when downhilling regardless of the end stop setting. The cranks as mentioned were a bit creaky and look very second-hand after 4 months of hammering. They were only LX though. (Both these problems resolved by updating).

The brakes have been mostly awesome coming from v-brakes and Magura hydraulic rims brakes. Haven't had many problems with squeal that many people get, although the front does on occasion become a little firm and grabby. Shaking the caliper seems to fix it. Performance has been impressive in all weathers and the pads last about 3 alpine months.

The Boxxer forks for all their difficulties in fitting, ride superbly. They feel stiction free with a smooth action from day one. I haven't really messed with the settings, they seemed to work for me out of the box. The only problem that has cropped up was with the bolts that tighten onto the spindle. To remove the front wheel you have to loosen 4 small bolts and the bolt on the spindle itself. The more you take it out the more you loosen/tighten the small bolts. One of mine de-threaded.

I was somewhat gutted, these were the most expensive forks on the market. I spoke to the Rockshox support people who tour with the World Cup and apparently it is a common thing when you over tighten the bolts. Nothing you can do unless you know a really good machine shop to re-thread it, but you have to be careful as it's near the oil, one slip and splosh. This is not so good. Unless you use a torque wrench every time you put the wheel in you are in danger of eventually having no bolts in the fork except the spindle retainer. This isn't good for a top race fork that costs a lot.

As for the Bullit frame itself, it looks sweet and rides as good as it looks. The Fox shock is very adjustable and I quite often find myself clicking a bit harder here and a bit softer there on rides. 152mm of travel works for me. It takes hits in it's stride, although you can feel overwhelmed by the settings if you mess it up. The bike has worked from day one, this more than anything has surprised me the most. Even though it costs a lot more than a pre-built mass market bike, I wasn't expecting to build my first bike and ride it without something playing up.

The bike has been used mainly for it's purpose of freeriding, but has also been used for cross country, World Cup class courses proved no problem - climbing is hard work but it builds your legs up and scares people on hardtails in lycra when they can't shake you. I have raced it and used it for the hardest kind of activity, downhill marathons. I used it on World Cup downhill courses and with a chain guide it would make a light downhill bike. I guess its a bit heavy for some people but that doesn't bother me. With three rings you can go anywhere on this bike.

It’s had a hard time away from its native California. In Europe with the mud, rocks and riding the ski lifts, the paintwork has bruised. The only problem I can find is the paintwork seems a little easy to scratch compared with the mass built bikes from Asia but I did get a white one. The chain stay in particular is difficult to protect as the change smacks right on the back where a Lizard skin can't get to.

Would I build again? Yes. Even though some companies I dealt with hadn't heard of customer service or just weren't interested after selling you the product, I would build another bike. Should you build a bike? Sure. It will take you more time and cost you more money than you planned, and you should make friends with a mechanic if you aren't kitted up.

Updates

2003

A minor rebuild in 2002/2003 consisted of all gear and drive chain parts LX to XT. Cranks, bottom bracket to Raceface Prodigy DH and all bits and bobs. The Bullit seems to get better with age I still enjoy riding it. On reflection the original build kit wasn't up to the quality of the frame and forks. Raceface and at least XT parts should be specified for freeriding. The Boxxer forks are still smooth but have now lost 1 screw and two are dodgy. The frame paint-work is in a bad state.

2005

I nearly got rid of the Bullit. Nearly. Instead I got it repainted (not recommended unless you are sending it back to the factory), fitted Marzocchi 66 RC (150mm) and had the Fox Vanilla RC (152mm) serviced and tuned. The rear shock was serviced and had custom damping by TF Tuned who run a very efficient turnaround but who can be busy. The Azonic saddle snapped on one of the rails. I replaced it with the same model. I also replaced the swingarm bearings and fittings with the Pro Pack (see PDF at the end of the page) although they didn’t appear worn.

The bike feels quite different at the back, firmer but still compliant. It doesn't run through its travel as quick as before but still takes the hits. The front fork is very different to the Boxxers. The turning circle for a start. They are also a lot different to the old Z1 bombers I had years ago. They feel stiff and the travel is smooth and handles small and large bumps with a bit of tweaking. They are more suited to singletrack and uphill but with the full on downhill rocky stuff they are obviously not as good as the Boxxers. The build quality is ok but they are not as straight as the Boxxers and the axle is a lot harder to get in and out. They come in a very trick bag. I guess if you have two sets of forks it might come in useful or if you remove them to travel, otherwise not sure of the point of it.

The only problem is where as before the bike could go uphill, do singletrack and downhill racing, it has lost the downhill racing ability. It has of course improved on the up and tight singletrack. In the UK it makes for a more suitable bike but in the Alps the dual crown forks are worthwhile for the big stuff and more stable at speed over the rocks. If I had increased the travel to 170mm it would have improved things a little but overall the Boxxers are better for going down.

In summary if you only ride big stuff it's worth sticking to dual crown forks, but if you ride more ups and tight stuff the 66 is the better option.

2006

I have upgraded the bars and stem to Easton and have at last a good set of pedals, Atomlab Aircorp, expensive but worth it. Tyres, saddle and grips are all now WTB. I have experimented with the forks now they are run in. Running them with only a little air (3psi) seems to help the front stick to the ground better. The forks have taken to leaking from the nut at the bottom of the right stanchion. They went back to the dealer under warranty to have the seal replaced. This lasted a couple of weeks.

The UK distributors of Marzocchi didn't seem overly keen to fix them and kept referring me to the dealer. They work fine with what little oil is left in the fork leg. As they are leaking and twisted and now feel too heavy and tall compared to newer forks I have decided to ditch them. How quick forks move on.

2001 - 2006 Parts

Seats - The frame rail snapped on the Azonic Hotseat after 4 years and I replaced it with another and then a WTB Pure V SLT Saddle which is smaller, weighs less and is as comfy.

Bars and Stem - I replaced the Azonic bars and World Force stem after 5 years with Easton. They were a little knocked and worn.

Drivetrain - Replaced the chain every year, replaced LX parts with XT parts. The LX parts weren’t up to the job especially the cranks which were replaced with Raceface. The LX shifter pods cracked. The Shimano rear QR became worn and rusted and was replaced with a Hope one. Cables were replaced a couple of times with XTR.

Wheels - The wheels are bombproof, the spokes have barely been touched. The Hope Bulb front hub had the bearings replaced in 2005.

Brakes - The rear disc was replaced in 2005 and I go through a set of pads per wheel per season. I have tried sintered and metallic - depends if you ride in the wet mud a lot as to wear.

Tyres - I have tried Maxxis Minion and High Roller, and Nokian Gazzolodi in 2.3. I am currently running WTB Timberwolf in 2.5 front and a 2.3 Motoraptor on the rear as the 2.5 rubbed the chain.

Grips - I started with Scott DH grips and moved onto Intense Lock- ons but got fed up with the end piece interfering with the gear shift and now run WTB technical trail grips in soft compound.

Pedals - The first pedals broke within 6 months and were replaced with some cheap VP ones and then another pair. I didn’t think it would be worth the money to buy expensive pedals as I keep hitting rocks with them. The latest pedal I am using is the Atomlab Aircorp, which is a beautifully made thing and works great.

Misc - The X-Lite crank bolts were retired shortly after purchase. Look nice but a waste of money. T.H.E Fender was used a couple of times but the flapping and noise put me off. The Aheadset was replaced with a Raceface Deus.

Shocks - The Rockshox Boxxers always worked fine and needed no maintenance in their time. The stickers wore out after 3 years. The Fox Racing Shox Vanilla RC also performed faultlessly and has been serviced by TF Tuned. I replaced the swingarm bushings with the Pro Pack in 2005 but they weren’t particularly worn. All the shock bolts were also replaced.

1999-2001 Bullit frame details

• 152mm (6 inch) rear wheel travel with stock 7.875" x2.25" size rear shock used
• Compatible with fork travel sizes 125mm (5") to 152mm (6").
• Max rear tire size - 2.5" to 2.6" recommended.
• Disc brake rotors up to 6 inch.
• 7005 AL tubeset

Early 2002

• 178mm (7 inch) rear travel with stock 8.5" x 2.5" size rear shock
• 178mm (7 inch) fork compatible
• 8 inch disc brake rotor compatible
• 6066 AL tubeset
• Slight pivot location change for increased pedaling performance.

May 2002 (2002.5)

• New side plate gussets at the headtube
• 203mm (8 inch) fork compatibility
• Straight seat tube (Allows you to raise and lower the seat post all the way)
• Re-designed downtube cable routing

2007

• 20mm swingarm pivot
• 135mm QR or 150mm thru-axle rear dropouts
• Optional 150mm axle fully floating rear brake kit
• 1.5" headtube
• Hard anodized 7075 aluminum hardware

2001 Original Specifications

Item	Colour	Size
Santa Cruz Bullit/Fox Vanilla RC Coil shock	white	medium/152mm shock
Rockshox Boxxer forks	red	178mm
Mavic 321DH wheel x 2	CD	36 spoke
DT Swiss spokes	black
Hope bulb rear hub	black
Hope bulb front hub	black	20mm axle
Shimano rear QR	n/a
Nokian Gazzaloddi tyres x 2	black	26x2.3
Aheadset AL	black	1 1/8
World Force Stem	black	50mm
Azonic Riser Bars	black	1.5 rise
Scott DH grips	black
Filthy Products Edlock	black
Thompson seatpost	black	28.6mm
Azonic Hot Seat	n/a
Outland QR Seat clamp	black
Shimano Deore hollow cranks & bb	n/a	44/32/22 bb 68mm/110mm
Shimano Deore Rapid fire 9-speed shift pods	n/a
Shimano XT rear derailleur	n/a
Shimano LX front derailleur	n/a	34.9mm top swing/top pull
Shimano XT cassette	n/a	11-34
Shimano gear cables and outers	n/a
X Lite crank bolts	red
Hayes front disc brake caliper	n/a
Hayes Boxxer adapter and 6" disc	n/a	6" disc
Hayes rear disc brake caliper and disc	n/a	4" disc
T.H.E. fender	black

2006 Specifications

Item	Colour	Original	Size
Santa Cruz Bullit/Fox Vanilla RC Coil shock	olive	except colour	medium/152mm shock
Marzocchi RC66 forks	black	no	150mm
Mavic 321DH wheel x 2	CD	yes	36 spoke
DT Swiss spokes	black	yes
Hope bulb rear hub	black	yes
Hope bulb front hub	black	yes	20mm axle
Hope rear QR	black	yes
WTB Timberwolf/Motoraptor	black	no	26x2.5/26x2.3
Raceface Deus	black	no	1 1/8
Easton Vice Stem	black	no	50mm
Easton EA30 bars	black	no	1.5 rise
WTB technical trail grips	black	no
Filthy Products Edlock	black	yes
Thompson seatpost	black	yes	28.6mm
WTB Pure V SLT Saddle	white	no
Outland QR Seat clamp	black	no
Raceface Prodigy DH cranks and Evolve Freeride BB	n/a	no	44/32/22 bb 68mm/110mm
Shimano XT Rapid fire 9-speed shift pods	n/a	no
Shimano XT rear derailleur	n/a	no
Shimano XT front derailleur	n/a	no	34.9mm top swing/top pull
Shimano XT cassette	n/a	no	11-34
Shimano XTR gear cables and outers	n/a	no
Hayes front disc brake caliper	n/a	yes
Hayes Marzocchi adapter	n/a	no
Hayes rear disc brake caliper and disc	n/a	yes
Atomlab Aircorp pedal	black	no

More photos on Flickr

• Bullit maintenance and Propack fitting (PDF 100Kb)
• Santa Cruz Bikes
• Santa Cruz Bikes UK
• Hope Technology

• Santa Cruz did me a great deal on the bike back in 2001 and have answered all my questions since that time. They also make a great bike. Thanks to Rob, Scott and Josh for their help.
• Hope technology helped out a with the 20mm hub and axle problems.